- 1KZ TE CYLINDER HEAD CRACK CRACKED
- 1KZ TE CYLINDER HEAD CRACK FULL VERSION
- 1KZ TE CYLINDER HEAD CRACK MODS
- 1KZ TE CYLINDER HEAD CRACK SERIES
- 1KZ TE CYLINDER HEAD CRACK CRACK
I can get a second hand 1KZ-TE with intercooler from a Prado from my.Anyway, I have exhaust communicating into the coolant system which is pressurising the radiator and losing coolant through heat and pushing it out to the overflow tank.
1KZ TE CYLINDER HEAD CRACK CRACKED
Not only is the head cracked all over the place, but so are No2 and 3 pistons. So today I stripped the engine down to remove the head and need to.
1KZ TE CYLINDER HEAD CRACK FULL VERSION
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1KZ TE CYLINDER HEAD CRACK SERIES
KZN1# series cars with the 1KZ-TE are prone to cracking the head, about 2k in parts from toyota (trade) About 1400 for the head alone. Good to use for exchange head or swap the gear over to new head. Cam shaft has been removed but still there. It must have been boiled off since I flushed and replaced the coolant when I purchased the vehicle.Ĭracked cylinder head from a 1kz-te prado, surf. Discovered when I towed my camper trailer and the temperature went through the roof because there was little if any coolant in the radiator. I recently bought a 2nd Hand Hilux but now have discovered it has a cracked head. I'd be inclined to put a 76deg C 'stat in the bottom - but I think the top stat will still be redundant - unless, of course, you have done something clever to the lower 'stat. If your lower 'stat is stopping the flow from the radiator, your top 80deg C 'stat won't make any difference as it will open way before the lower one. Presumably the system relies on thermosyphon to let cool coolant replace hot coolant at the bottom of the block. With the lower stat open the flow from the bottom of the block is stopped and coolant circulates from the bottom of the radiator, past the oil cooler (hidden behind the oil filter) around the head and out of the top to the radiator. With the lower 'stat closed, the coolant can circulate around the block.
The problem seems to be that the top gets too hot under sudden loads and the bottom doesn't get hot enough to open the 'stat. On the standard set-up there is no restriction to the flow at the top and the lower 'stat is 82deg C. You have an 80deg thermostat in the top and a modified thermostat in the bottom, how has the lower 'stat been modified? ive got 2 temp gauges also modified my toyota gauge to read quickly with new resistors, ive noticed the temp rise up to 90ish from 75 deg C in the head where the factory temp sender is and the aftermarket temp probe in the top hose outlet on 80-82deg C and not move, under quick excelleration high loads ie up hills in 5th towing, could the coolant be that much different?
1KZ TE CYLINDER HEAD CRACK CRACK
Is it possible thats why these heads crack all the time, as the water wouldnt be moving.
Now in aussie land the only thing you can get for headgaskets is spray on copper coat, I am wondering if I should get the hylomer blue jointing paste from the UK and use that on both sides of another toyota gasket? Im hoping I dont have a new cracked head, and its just a compression leak around the back of the engine - noticed it was discouloured when the new head went on, it does chugg a bit on one cylinder now on 1st startup for the dayīobMurphy ive read your posts on the coolant flow, I was starting to think if the lower bypass thermostat works perfectly wouldnt it be causing a hot spot in the back part of the engine when the thermostat opens and full flow is acheived, closeing the internal gallery? I was wondering if I had another cracked head if this was the case as my bottom thermostat is in position to keep the bypass closed (wouldnt think it would be totally sealed shut)and allow the top thermostat to control the temp of the block
1KZ TE CYLINDER HEAD CRACK MODS
Im thinking I must have a leaking headgasket? with all my mods egts rarely get over 500degC, runs cold too cold somedays as I use a w2a system with a/c water chiller for hot days, but no problem with water loss on cooler days, just when temps are over 25deg and towing etc Hey guys, Im in aussie land, did a conversion on my old 4runner with a 2004 1kzte, came with a cracked head that developed 2 months after install, have since fitted a complete assembled kiwi heads head and a genuine gasket, a 55mm monster alloy radiator, mechanical injection pump, lpg, w2a intercooler, 3inch zorst for some decent horsepower, and it goes really well, problem now if head/block gets over 90deg, (has a 80 deg top thermostat setup - lower thermostat with bypass modified), it starts to pressurize radiator which then leads it to run warm with less coolant in the system, takes around 1200klm to use 3 litres, Have been using water/water wetter instead.
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